History
Uxmal is a beautiful Mayan archaeological site that became prominent in the late classical period, specifically around 700-900 CE. Uxmal means thrice built, referring to how the city was improved upon and built up in stages while being inhabited. The Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia states that “Ux” is the Yucatec Mayan word for harvest, showing the city’s importance in the area’s agriculture. Legends state their first king was a dwarf magician who built the first pyramid in one night. The immense buildings and architecture show a level of craftsmanship and social stratification needed to undertake such an endeavor. Academics believe construction projects stopped as Uxmal fell under the control of other rising cities at the time before its political collapse and abandonment. Uxmal is still being excavated, and new and exciting discoveries are regularly happening.
Highlights
The archaeological site features essential buildings like the Governor’s Palace, the Nun’s Quadrangle, the Cemetery Group, the House of the Old Woman, and the unforgettable Pyramid of the Magician. Chaac, the rain god, can be seen everywhere. There is a throne depicting a two-headed Jaguar and enormous square doorways leading into central plazas. The site is built into and on hills, making it difficult to take photographs and navigate. The Pyramid of the Magician goes by a few names, but it is called Pirámide del Adivino in Spanish. It is an impressively large pyramid that is round and smooth, unlike Chichén Itzá’s unique step design. The top of the temple contains a doorway, giving the appearance of the face of Chaac. Several corbel archways and entrances are flanked by other important buildings that lead into the central plaza of the pyramid. The rear side of the pyramid is where you enter the site, but any side gives onlookers an extraordinary view of the immense and incredible Mayan architecture. Uxmal is known for its Puuc-style architecture, artwork, and preservation. The Puuc architecture revolves around patterns. Primarily, people will notice a symbol similar to an X. The architecture of this site and some others depicts reeds or vertical columns as well as smaller designs and Chaac masks on the corners of buildings. Geometric patterns adorn buildings in a three-dimensional way, popping out of the buildings.
Exploring the Site
Walking into the archaeological site is reminiscent of the other Mayan sites. You enter a courtyard of small gift shops and an establishment selling refreshments and food and continue to a gate where you must pay. Visitors continue on a path flanked by trees and jungle into a clearing with the back of the pyramid of the Magician welcoming you. The pyramid can no longer be climbed, but visitors will be surprised and alarmed at the number of areas they can walk into and climb. The site’s layout is based on astronomy and requires climbing up and down steep Mayan steps to reach other parts of the complex. You can explore the site in one of three main ways. Moving through the center, walking around the pyramid. Going left, eventually climbing down the steps of the Governor’s Palace and the House of the Pigeons, or going right near the Quadrangle of the Nun’s and then climbing up the steep steps up the hills.
Travel and Tips
The best place to start is to get to Merida. You will go to the Ado Tame station near the town center and buy a bus ticket to Uxmal. The journey can be cramped, with people getting off and on at small stops. The bus stop at Uxmal is tiny and looks nonexistent in the middle of nowhere on Highway 261 Puuc. The bus leads to Campeche and back to Merida. It is also consistently late. Do not be afraid. It will come, and you are in the right place. Just consult your GPS. I would recommend bringing bug spray and cash. There is also a unique chocolate tour across the street at Museo Choco-Story Uxmal. I highly recommend doing this if you have time. Visitors can sample chocolates traditionally and see a fascinating history interlinked with the Mayans. It has botanical sections and animals like rescued Jaguars. Outside the sight, some local vendors sell clothes and souvenirs.
My Visit
Our journey started early in the morning. We took an Uber from our hotel to the bus station. Communication in English was challenging, and Spanish was not much better. This is because of the confusing nature of the buses and which bus we needed to be on. As our departure time approached, I took matters into my own hands, trusting no one, and asked different bus drivers who pointed me to the correct bus we needed to be on, which I confirmed with our driver. The bus was empty; it held no more than ten people. We sat in the front to get a great view of the areas we would drive through. We arrived at our stop, which was lackluster and nerve-racking as we were in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, the signs to the sight are visible once on the road. Mosquitoes assaulted us, and for the first time in my life, we felt like a swarm of them was chasing us. We were covered in other people’s blood, presumably, and slapping ourselves and each other. We even jokingly contemplated leaving if it was not for our arduous journey. After visiting the sight and having a few hours to kill, we noticed the Museo Choco-Story Uxmal. I looked it up, and it is part of a multination museum chain of chocolate. That was an experience in and of itself, and it was highly recommended online. I also recommend this tour. The bus was very late, and it started to rain. The ride back was extremely cramped and long, with even more stops, but we made it back safely and in one piece. It was worth it all in the end and added to our experience and adventure. Walking into and climbing in these ruins was a rare experience in itself.
Steven Ramos
