The Maya are a civilization that scholars in several fields work together to decipher. Even today, new work is being done with the help of drones, LIDAR (Light Detection and Ranging), and new excavations, bettering our understanding of these mysterious people and their culture. Once teeming with life, the Maya cities now stand as silent testaments to a bygone era. Among these remnants is Cobá, a hidden gem deep within the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico near the state border of Quintana Roo and Yucatán.
Coba is said to be the original name used by the Mayan people who occupied the site. Although the name may have multiple meanings, some scholars agree on “choppy water” regarding the lakes surrounding the city. Cobá is a city that is laid out in a series of groups like other Mayan cities. Unlike some cities, it is spread out, requiring more effort to see its wonders and hidden secrets. The city reached its pinnacle during the Classic period, becoming a trade hub between the northern Yucatan sites and the Southern Petén cities. Unlike its coastal counterpart, Tulum, Cobá thrived in the heart of the jungle. Its strategic location allowed it to control trade routes and influence surrounding territories.
Cobá is an exciting archaeological site compared to others in northern Yucatán. It contains a vast road network of sacbeob, the Mayan word for roads. A sacbé means a singular road. These white roads splinter off, requiring visitors to double back to the main road and continue on a different fork all leading back to the main sacbé when you enter the archaeological site. These roads venture several kilometers and link to cities like Chichén Itzá. The jungle looms over you as you are engulfed, with only the road to guide you between the different groups of archeological ruins. The site contains over 34 stelae, and their legibility is variable given the passage of time. The towering pyramid of Nohoch Mul, the tallest structure in the region, emerges from the canopy, promising an unforgettable view of this once-great city.
My journey began at my hotel in the Rivera Maya. Like our Trip to the Tulum ruins, I ordered a Taxi at the bell desk. Once we agreed on $200 USD, we got in the taxi and took an hour car ride to Cobá. My driver parked and told us we had three hours. We walked up to the ticket office, paid in cash, and gave our tickets to the men at the gate a few steps away. A much more straightforward process and no actual security check. Follow the path and explore how you like. The site is less popular and out of the way for many, as we did not see other humans until two hours into our time at Cobá. We were able to take our time taking in the fantastic views. This more strenuous site requires much walking combined with the humidity and shaded from the sun; it will wear down even those in decent shape. If you choose not to walk, bicycle rentals and tuk-tuk-style carts for hire wait to whisk weary travelers to each group of ruins. It is all worth it.
Finding tours to this site may prove more difficult and usually are in a package including cenotes and even Tulum ruins as the first stop. Cobá is more than just ancient ruins; it’s an immersion into the heart of the Yucatan. The surrounding area offers opportunities to experience the local culture, cuisine, and natural beauty. Indulge in traditional Mayan dishes. Explore nearby cenotes. Outside of the sight lies a few shops that sell souvenirs and snacks. You will find what you are looking for in the jungle.
Cobá is a testament to the Maya’s ingenuity and resilience. It is a place where history and nature intertwine, offering visitors a chance to connect with the past while immersing themselves in the present. You can no longer climb Nohoch Mul. While Cobá may not be as famous as Chichén Itzá or Tulum, its allure lies in its authenticity and the sense of adventure it inspires.
Steven Ramos